Haute cuisine, a tension between discourse and practice, Tokyo (October 1 & 2, 2018)

1rst Conference, Tokyo (October 1 & 2, 2018)

(Yayoi Auditorium Annex, Yayoi Campus, Tokyo University)

Haute cuisine, a tension between discourse and practice


October 1, 2018   (9 am-5 pm)

Opening by Takahiro NAKAJIMA (9-9:15 am)

Introduction by Sandrine RUHLMANN (9:15-9:30 am)

9:30-10:30 am Hirohisa KOYAMA (Chef, Aoyagi restaurant, Tokyo) The art of cooking of ancient and modern times

Tea break (10:30-10:40 am)

10:40-11:40 am Alice DOUBLIER (Research associate, EHESS, anthropology of techniques, Japan)  A sense for the dish: texture and taste in contemporary Japanese ceramics

11:40-12:40 am Virginie de SAINT QUENTIN (Teacher-Researcher at Ferrandi Paris, coordinator of the Ferrandi-AgroParisTech master IPCI) Videography and grounded theory research: case study “from culinary phantasm to eudemonic wellbeing” and work in progress “urban agriculture craze”

Lunch (12:40 am-1:40 pm) (Bento, from chef Koyama)

1:40-2:40 pm Shoichiro TAKEZAWA (Professor, National Museum of Ethnology of Osaka – FFJ of EHESS of Paris, anthropology of food, Japan & France) Enigma of the oyster eaten law in France, cooked in Japan

2:40-3:40 pm Françoise SABBAN (Full Professor, EHESS, history and anthropology of food, China) Is the knife only serving aesthetics in Chinese haute cuisine?

Tea break (3:40-3:50 pm)

3:50-4:50 pm Greg de SAINT MAURICE (Associate Professor, Osaka City University, anthropology of food, Japan) Discourses and practices of Japaneseness: Japanese haute cuisine inside and outside of Japan

4:50-5:50 pm  Éric TROCHON (Chef, Meilleur Ouvrier de France 2011, Freddy’s, Semilla, Paris, Eric’S, Tokyo & Teacher at Ferrandi) Washoku & Yoshoku. The story of a mutual fascination & total misunderstanding


7 pm Diner (at Kyobashi Basara, chef Koyama’s restaurant)


October 2, 2018   (9 am-6 pm)

9-10 am Aël THERY (PhD student, EHESS, anthropology of food, A.P. of Guangxi – China) Does culinary regional identity’s claim represent a lock or a spring in the creativity process? Discussion with chefs in the autonomous province of Guangxi

10-11 am  Sandrine RUHLMANN (Researcher, CNRS, anthropology of food, Mongolia) Mongolian chefs and gastronomy in Ulaanbaatar: an ethnography of culinary techniques

Tea break (11-11:15 am)

“Transcribing Japanese Cuisine”, organized by Takahiro NAKAJIMA (Professor & President,University of Tokyo, Chinese philosophy)

11:15 am -12:15 pm Tomoji ONOZUKA (Professor, University of Tokyo, economic history) Ability for the culinary creation

Lunch (12:15-1:15 pm) (Mukogaoka Faculty House)

1:15-2:00 pm  Hiraku KANEKO (Associate Professor, University of Tokyo, Japanese history) “Omonetashi” during the warring states period. The art of business entertainment from Nobunaga and Hideyoshi

2:00-2:45 pm Nobuyuki YAGI (Professor, University of Tokyo, agricultural and life sciences) History of Japanese fisheries and its nexus in food culture

2:45-3:30 pm Mariko MURAMATSU (Professor, University of Tokyo, Italian literature) Writing about food and creating

3:30-4:15 pm Alessandro STANZIANI (Director of Studies, EHESS, global history) AOC: preservation of traditions or stabilization of innovations?

Tea break (4:15-4:30 pm)

4:30-6 pm Committee discussion


7 pm Diner (at Komagata Dojo, Asakusa)